new american 5200 series padlocks, key impossible to remove, depression setting in :-(

[dave]

bought a dozen padlocks, new. stuck a key in lock #1, it operates lock,
but now will -not- come out of lock (locked OR unlocked, I mean here. it
won't "come out at all, period"). tried various things, wiggling,
pressing shackle while pulling key, wiggle-pulling key, etc, all to no
avail.

haven't resorted to using my vice and dent knock-puller yet.

so I opened brand new lock box number TWO. this time I look at the brand
new keys *closely*, and notice two things:

1. key has never, -ever- been 'wire wheeled' (sharp burrs on edges of
all teeth easily fely with fingers, and

2. at 'the deepest valleys' in the keys (cut with their key cutter,
mill, or whatever the factory uses) there are clearly VISIBLE and quite
large -burrs- protruding sideways (which I assume IS causing the key to
be STUCK the heck in lock #1, seeing as those burrs are also on the
second key for the 1st lock, and on -both- keys for lock #2...

so, do I wire wheel these babies 'with a light touch', get out my
jewelers files for the burrs first, or what?

thanks for advice guys,

toolie

[m***@notanywhere.net]

Post by dave
so, do I wire wheel these babies 'with a light touch', get out my
jewelers files for the burrs first, or what?
thanks for advice guys,
toolie

FINE wire wheel-try one ONLY first..

the stuck key, the cylinder come out? a changeable cylinder?
and if the burrs are OTHER THAN ON THE BOTTOM of the cuts,
carefully file them.. look at the top of the cuts, thats the
usual problem..
the top of the V...
--Shiva--

[Leon Rowell]

Toolie,

Jewelers files should work. I sometimes use a small pocket knife to trim
the burrs off also.

To get the key out of the lock I have had some success holding the lock
up by the key (it helps to have a keyring on the key) and rapping the
pin side of the lock with a small wooden hammer handle. Do this over a
carpeted area and don't let the lock fall on your foot... :^)

Leon Rowell

Post by dave
bought a dozen padlocks, new. stuck a key in lock #1, it operates lock,
but now will -not- come out of lock (locked OR unlocked, I mean here. it
won't "come out at all, period"). tried various things, wiggling,
pressing shackle while pulling key, wiggle-pulling key, etc, all to no
avail.
haven't resorted to using my vice and dent knock-puller yet.
so I opened brand new lock box number TWO. this time I look at the brand
1. key has never, -ever- been 'wire wheeled' (sharp burrs on edges of
all teeth easily fely with fingers, and
2. at 'the deepest valleys' in the keys (cut with their key cutter,
mill, or whatever the factory uses) there are clearly VISIBLE and quite
large -burrs- protruding sideways (which I assume IS causing the key to
be STUCK the heck in lock #1, seeing as those burrs are also on the
second key for the 1st lock, and on -both- keys for lock #2...
so, do I wire wheel these babies 'with a light touch', get out my
jewelers files for the burrs first, or what?
thanks for advice guys,
toolie

[Unk]

Post by dave
bought a dozen padlocks, new. stuck a key in lock #1, it operates lock,
but now will -not- come out of lock (locked OR unlocked, I mean here. it
won't "come out at all, period"). tried various things, wiggling,
pressing shackle while pulling key, wiggle-pulling key, etc, all to no
avail.
haven't resorted to using my vice and dent knock-puller yet.
so I opened brand new lock box number TWO. this time I look at the brand
1. key has never, -ever- been 'wire wheeled' (sharp burrs on edges of
all teeth easily fely with fingers, and
2. at 'the deepest valleys' in the keys (cut with their key cutter,
mill, or whatever the factory uses) there are clearly VISIBLE and quite
large -burrs- protruding sideways (which I assume IS causing the key to
be STUCK the heck in lock #1, seeing as those burrs are also on the
second key for the 1st lock, and on -both- keys for lock #2...
so, do I wire wheel these babies 'with a light touch', get out my
jewelers files for the burrs first, or what?
thanks for advice guys,
toolie

Use a toothpick to push against the lock cylinder face while pinching the key out.
The cylinder has too much end play. The core pulls foreward slightly blocking the bible
chambers and preventing the pins from entering the bible.

['Key]

Post by Unk
Use a toothpick to push against the lock cylinder face
while pinching the key out.
The cylinder has too much end play. The core pulls
foreward slightly blocking the bible
chambers and preventing the pins from entering the bible.

bingo :-)

[dave]

Post by Unk
Use a toothpick to push against the lock cylinder face while pinching the key out.
The cylinder has too much end play. The core pulls foreward slightly blocking the bible
chambers and preventing the pins from entering the bible.

thanks unk, and key, I'll sure look into/try that today. not sure, but
the 'inference' of your comment seems that the tiny screw (holding the
cylinder cover plate in place, the one under the shackle, and the
cylinder, too, therefor, I sssume) is probably 'loose'?

-or- are the cylinders in 5200 series padlocks normally 'shimmed' to the
correct degree of end-play?

me hopes 'no shims are involved' for obvious reasons :-/

thanks again, to you guys and all replies,

toolie

[wayne c]

Key is refering to the cylinder plug retainer being loose, allowing it to
try to pull out of the shell, if the retainer is loose, the bottom pins
won't raise up into the bible of the shell, because they are not lined up,
hench the key being stuck. If the retainer is off, the plug would just pull
out with the key and you'd have a mess. Wayne

Post by Unk
Use a toothpick to push against the lock cylinder face while pinching the key out.
The cylinder has too much end play. The core pulls foreward slightly blocking the bible
chambers and preventing the pins from entering the bible.

thanks unk, and key, I'll sure look into/try that today. not sure, but the
'inference' of your comment seems that the tiny screw (holding the
cylinder cover plate in place, the one under the shackle, and the
cylinder, too, therefor, I sssume) is probably 'loose'?
-or- are the cylinders in 5200 series padlocks normally 'shimmed' to the
correct degree of end-play?
me hopes 'no shims are involved' for obvious reasons :-/
thanks again, to you guys and all replies,
toolie

[Steve Paris]

You got it Unk !. Exactly what I was going to say.

['Key]

Post by Steve Paris
You got it Unk !. Exactly what I was going to say.
--
Steve Paris
Cairns Australia

Steve, how are things down-under ?
Kitt really likes the package ya sent !
hell, I do too...

thanks again
--
"Key"
=====

Post by Steve Paris

Post by Unk
Use a toothpick to push against the lock cylinder face
while pinching the key out.
The cylinder has too much end play. The core pulls
foreward slightly blocking the bible
chambers and preventing the pins from entering the bible.